In posts past I've made quite a fuss about the glory that is real-deal Gorgonzola, and finally today I will fill you in, dear reader, on just how delicious it is.
This is the cheese your grandparents told you about, the one from the old country that is filled with both a magical presence and yet a completely approachable humble honesty. It is not as brash nor as pretentious as the self-proclaimed Kings of blue from England or France, it simply packs a lifetime of incredible flavor, centuries of hard work and refinement, into an accessible and delicious paste.
From the region of Lombardy, this cheese and it's close cousin Stracchino are both made from milk gathered during the cows' seasonal migrations during spring and fall. This tired, or "stracca" milk creates two major varieties of cheese, both Gorgonzola Dolce and it's older brother Gorgonzola Piccante (or Naturale, etc). The older version is a markedly different cheese, and I'll get to it soon enough. For now, the masterpiece that is Gorgonzola Dolce:
Origin: Lombardy, Italy
Milk: Cow, pasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 3-5 Months
Notes: Pierced with needles to allow the Penicillium Roqueforti to flourish, rind washed in brine during curing process. Made with two milkings one after another, high butterfat content. These are all good things, these are all things we like.
Thoughts: To start out there are very few cheeses that smell this good. When allowed to come to room temperature the sweet and tingly smell of cheese, spices, and even fruit fills the air with an aroma that by itself is mouthwatering. The flavor is no letdown. Sweet and lush with a present but unobtrusive kick weaving in and out, it is a thing of beauty. The paste, thanks to the young age and the rind washing, is so soft it begs to be spread and protests any other methods by sticking onto whatever you throw at it. The salty tones beneath the whole experience only heighten your awareness of just how full the creaminess is and give the spice of the mold a chance to shine as well. The thin rind along with the already decadent texture round out an experience that is so good you should be careful how much you bring to room temperature at a time; you will eat every last bit in one sitting. It is, for all intents and purposes, a different cheese category altogether than Roquefort or Stilton, any comparison would be for nothing because Gorgonzola just hits a different part of the palate. Good grief that’s delicious.
Random Thought to Burden You Further With
I hope to fix the regularity of these posts and at the very least keep overall quota of posts met, but there is nothing like being in country for the first time in a year to make you forget what free time looks like. There's my story and I'm sticking to it. And now back to your regular programming
>>Silly cheese-related joke<<
I like to meander around Italy. Do you have any suggestions as to where to go and when to sample this cheese directly from the producer?
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Jim
Hi Jim! I'm jealous of the opportunity, but with any luck you can try all the fresh Gorgonzola for both of us. To find Gorgonzola production you'll have to head to northern Italy. By law, Gorgonzola can only be made in two Regions in Italy, Lombardy and Piedmont. Within these regions you'll want to head for Novara, Vercelli, Cuneo, Biella, Verbania, Casale Monferrato in Piedmont or Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Lecco, Lodi, Milan, Monza, Pavia, and Varese in Lombardy. Beyond that I would ask around, perhaps at markets or cheese stores or anywhere you find the good stuff. A lot of the stuff exported to the US is made by a few conglomerates, but with any luck you can find some small, obscure, and utterly delightful producer. Happy hunting.
ReplyDeleteFYI, It looks like Luigi Guffanti in Arona (near Milan) (http://www.guffantiformaggi.com/) is the place to go. He has an outstanding selection of cheeses.
Delete