Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Vacherin Fribourgeois, [witty Klassenkampf reference]

You know, becuase you can't spell Fribourgeoise without German-political-theoretical-antagonist-turned totalitarian-scapegoat. You know? You know.
For those of you who sat patiently through my anti-Jarlsberg rant here is the grand payoff; I'm reviewing an actual Swiss Cheese. This is not your grandfather's Swiss cheese, this is not riddled with holes (fun fact: these are referred to as "eyes" in the cheese world), this was not produced in middle America nor should you simply toss it in your next Turkey-Bacon-Swiss wrap. This is the bonified, yodeling in the alps, trilingual, archetype neutral, personal-bodyguards-to-our-blessed-pontiff Swiss Cheese. Switzerland is home to two very different cheeses called Vacherin, which comes from the French for "cow"; la vache. The other, Mont d'Or, will get its own post just as soon as I shell out for it, but as it's purchased as a whole and is a well known and respected cheese it's a little steep for my current budget.The good news is that this other version, Vacherin Fribourgeois, is fully deserving of it's own post as well. Made in the Valais canton of Switzerland, this century-old cheese is well worth trying to find in the States.
Origin: Valais, Switzerland
Milk: Cow, unpasteurized
Rennet: Good old fashioned animal enzyme
Affinage: 2-3 months
Notes: You want a scary rind? We got your scary rind, we got your full bodied aroma, what you know about a raw-milk cheese? Listeria? More like Lame-steria. What.
Thoughts: That sweet and tangy, mildly pungent aroma welcomes the swiss cheese enthusiast to Vacherin Fribourgeois, and though the rind may look imposing the paste has a moist and semi-firm texture that both cuts well and melts in the mouth. At room temperature this cheese is a knockout-delight, first round, flying like a butterfly and some other boxing metaphors. The creamy paste gives way instantly, releasing initial notes of meat, grass, and salt. Just as quickly as the flavor comes on, however, it changes; breaking down quickly into a richly sweet and nutty lingering aftertaste. The fullness of the flavor here is actually difficult to put in words as texture, aroma, and flavor all work as one to shock the senses and give the brain that cheesy-dopamine kick it's craving. The rind adds an extra bit of spice to the mix but does not have to be eaten to enjoy this cheese, plus it should be noted that with raw milk cheeses the highest risk of bacterial infections are on the rind. I rolled the dice for this review (and people say I create drama, hah), but if you prefer to avoid the minute possibility of long regimens of antibiotics then you won't miss out on much by keeping to the curd (paste).


Caution
I purchased this cheese not 24 hours ago, in celebration of finishing a term paper on time. If you find yourself purchasing celebratory cheese it's time to throw in the towel and join the ranks of fellow cheese addicts. The grass really is greener over on this side.   


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