Monday, May 16, 2011

Camembert Bellerive, French Camembert for the Masses

No, this is not a political statement, unless you count my general aversion to the mass-produced export-minded copies of European originals a political position. Actually, maybe it is.
What this definitely is is a cheese blog, so how about some fun cheese information instead of more griping about the overprotective, out-of-touch, taste-squelching suits who wouldn't know flavo.... whoops.
What this definitely is is a cheese blog, so how about some fun cheese information. Brie and Camembert are perhaps the two best known French cheeses, but there's often confusion over how the two differ. This is understandable, as really the two flavors are nearly identical. Both are, ideally, raw cow milk cheeses that have been surface ripened and have the same thickness, coming from topographically similar regions of France, made using very similar "recipes". Recipes in the cheesemaking world roughly meaning the details of how long the milk is heated, how fast, to what temperature, etc. This is not to be confused with pasteurization, all cheeses raw and otherwise are made with milk/curd that has been meticulously heated and cooled.
There are variations in flavor depending on the exact origin of each cheese, but then the same variations exist between Bries of different origin within Île de France as well. The real differences, then, are that true Camembert is made in Normandy while true Brie is made in Île de France, and that while Brie is made in a variety of sizes Camembert is only made in 8oz (250g) discs. 
Unfortunately neither name is controlled by French or EU law, so for every one genuine, quality Brie you'll almost certainly find a hundred factory-made ultra-pasteurized pieces that have more in common with Elmer's glue than with anything made from milk. The real deal Camembert will be carefully labled Véritable Camembert de Normandie while Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun are the most easily found true Bries, and all of these will state their name protection status (AOC or VCN) proudly and visibly. Sadly these three examples are not to be found in the US, but still it's worth the search. It is along that path we find today's Camembert Bellerive, one of the closer approximations to traditional Camembert that are available in the US. I say approximations because this cheese would originally be unpasteurized and made on a relatively small scale, not pasteurized and made in mass-export quantity. Nevertheless it is a delicious cheese and a respectable hint at what those across the pond get to enjoy. 
Origin: France
Milk: Cow, pasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: Roughly 3 weeks
Notes: Not sure if the scale comes across but 250g is a good bit of cheese, and while this will go quickly, being about 70% water, you probably will do alright with just one for a medium sized party with other cheeses. It's a favorite of those who tend to scrape plates with the leftover bread... definitely not me. 
Thoughts: This particular Camembert is relatively mild despite a very mushroomy smell. The fluffy rind is effectively without flavor but is soft enough to compliment the sticky texture of the paste. Dominated by notes of mushroom and grass, the flavor remains fairly constant throughout and is carried along by a strong creaminess. Towards the end a mild tang develops and lasts into the aftertaste but all in all it's still an unoffensive cheese. Not saying that a Camembert need be offensive to be worthwhile, this particular cheese simply falls short of the "oooh"s and "aaah"s that this French classic should elicit. At room temperature the whole cheese is thoroughly tasty and will add a strong presence to any cheese plate, but being better than American factory-made garbage is not grounds alone for highest praise.


Caution
Buying one of these for yourself, well you know what that might be a sign of. It's nice to share. 

1 comment:

  1. Best posting we've seen. Thanks for cutting to the chase/cheese.

    ReplyDelete