Saturday, May 7, 2011

Humboldt Fog, Reason Alone to Visit California

It's no secret that Cypress Grove holds a nearly cult-like following among goat cheese enthusiasts (I like how saying 'goat cheese enthusiasts' makes it sound like it's a normal, established thing), and this fantastic addition is undoubtedly the primary reason. One of the earliest and most widely acclaimed examples of America's "Cheese Renaissance," Humboldt Fog is the crown jewel of Mary Keehn's impressive cheese empire. A surface ripened disk with an unmistakable grey rind and a layer of vegetable ash down the center; it looks very much like a decadent layer cake and the flavor is no disappointment. This is one of those cheeses I've been wishing I could find in small-town Germany. That good. 
Origin: California, USA
Milk: Goat, pasteurized
Rennet: Microbial, (vegetarian friendly)
Affinage: ~6 weeks, ripens until you cut into it.
Notes: The layer of ash down the center of the paste is a throwback to the old cheeses of Europe such as Morbier. The morning milking curd was covered in a layer of ash to preserve it until the evening milking curd was put on top. Also, it seems I couldn't quite wait to start eating this wedge before I photographed it. Whoops.
Thoughts: Shall I compare thee to a Summer's day? Thou art more easily spread on baguettes and infinitely more delicious than rough winds or darling buds of May. There are loads of decent but ultimately forgettable surface ripened chevres out there, but Humboldt Fog truly stands apart. The flavor is, from the start, complex and dynamic, proof that with age comes fromage's equivalent of wisdom: sophistication of flavor. The rich, truly-cake like, paste comes on strong with sweet, grassy, mushroomy tones from the very beginning, and the intensity just builds alongside the full creaminess of the milk. The creamline, just below the rind, was encroaching slightly on my more aged piece, but while the paste is perfection the creamline still has something to add. Smoother and tangier than the already smooth paste, it adds a faintly spicy tone to the experience and, when rind, creamline, and paste are eaten together, it's a quick view of cheese heaven. Alternatively you buy a whole wedge (or a whole wheel!!!) and you get a slightly longer view of cheese heaven.
This cheese deserves every bit of praise, and indeed every award, that is has received, but the true testament to Cypress Grove is that they have even better offerings waiting to be discovered. Stay tuned. Humboldt Fog should be fairly easy to find in the USA, with specialty cheese stores and a growing number of "natural" supermarket chains carrying this cash cow (Gold Goat?), and it will absolutely disappear from any cheese platter. Impress your friends, indulge your addiction, buy a wedge and see why so many people swear by Humboldt Fog.

Caution,
There are those who, when they are enjoying the festivities of a cheese party, will attempt to carve the paste out of every cheese and leave the rind on the plate. This is cardinal sin with Humboldt Fog, as the rind is truly so well suited to the paste the two need never be separated. Offenders shall be prosecuted. The Acquitted will be subjected to double jeopardy. The twice-Acquitted will be made to watch Double Jeopardy.  

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