Ewephoria, See What They Did There?

There are some traditions as old as the hills. 

The Gouda masters of Holland are the keepers of some such traditions, and naturally they are the last word on Gouda production. This cheese is not one of those traditions.

Aimed pretty shamelessly at the export market, Ewephoria joins the ranks such as Soignon goat brie and Cambozola in letting flavor follow market demands. While those two cheeses are mediocre if forgettable Frankensteins (or Frankenstein's monsters, if you're a purist), Ewephoria is actually pretty good. You know, dear reader, how I protest against such prostitution of palate for profit, but here's one example that stumbles upon a decent idea and executes it brilliantly. 

Origin: Holland

Milk: Sheep, pasteurized

Rennet: Microbial

Affinage: 6-12 months

Notes: There are a few different ages available, but who are we kidding. Why go for mild and meh when you can have a Gouda that screams unintelligbly in Dutch at you. Doesn't that sound like more fun?

Thoughts: This adaptation on Gouda has a pleasant flavor that develops over the course of the taste. At first the cheese starts out with a mild nuttiness and a hint of sweetness, by the end the sweetness has developed into a rich and dark toffee/butterscotch note that breaks down perfectly on the palate. This sweetness is highlighted and contrasted by the natural oiliness of the sheep's milk, which makes for a complex but not overbearing overall taste. Not too creamy, but balanced, this is a great interpretation of the classic Gouda and well worth trying for any Gouda lover. 

What is fascinating is the contrast between the characteristics of sheep's milk from Spain and that from Holland. I mean, barely 1,000km apart and they could be two completely different animals, for example there is nothing olive-oily about this cheese, but you can practically taste it in a lot of the Spanish sheep's milk delicacies. Does no one else find this really exciting? Am I all alone in the universe?

Carreyroüs, Racer X

Sorry, that's kind of a reach/throw for anyone who might be familiar with speed racer. It's Racer X because I have pretty much no information on this guy aside from the bare bones. How's that for a disappointing intro? 

Origin: France. Deepest most mysterious France.

Milk: Sheep, unpasteurized

Rennet: Animal

Affinage: 3-5 weeks

Notes: In the crottin style, mottled rind and stunning to look at. 

Thoughts: The soft rind gives way nicely to a smooth and perfectly moist sheep’s milk paste. The flavor begins nutty and creamy, building into a sweet and bold, full flavor with hints of grass, and a milkiness like you might find in a mozzarella. No real spice here despite the rind, just a solid example of a young sheep's milk cheese.The aftertaste is clean and leaves you wanting more.

For anyone in the Boulder/Denver area, there is a cheese festival in Aurora on the 5th. You should all be there. 

Cabrales, The Boogey Man of Blue Cheese

It hides out in your closet, spooks young children, fills the stories of concerned grandparents, real deal boogey man stuff. 

Be afraid. Seriously, fear this cheese above all things. 

So vicious is this blue cheese that it can be tough to even find where the paste is among all the mold. Oh that mold. That fierce, fierce mold. 

Not only is it super extra moldy, it's from raw cow, goat, and sheep's milk. It has DOP status and may only be made in the northern spur of the Europa Peaks of eastern Asturias. Spur cheese, man. Spur cheese. 

Origin: Asturias, Spain

Milk: Cow, goat, and sheep, unpasteurized

Rennet: Animal

Affinage: 3 months

Notes: Slow aged for 3 months in cold, oxygenated, humid caves. A farmstead, handmade cheese made in the high mountain pastures using good old Penicillium.

Thoughts: There seems to be a slight delay when eating this cheese, perhaps because the tastebuds are initially in too great a shock to even remember to fire those signals to the brain at all. This blue is beyond sharp, beyond spicy. The mold is so densely packed that there isn’t actually much paste left at all, literally a 2:1 ratio of mold to cheese. This can only mean one thing: hide your kids, hide your wife, and hide your husbands cause it’s burning up everybody out here. Really though this is a unique flavor among blue cheeses, the cheese sticks like gum and has a spicy burn that, though it’s a little one-dimensional, grows stronger and stronger with every second and well into the aftertaste. Literally a breath-takingly intense flavor.

The baddest blue cheese I've come across so far... definitely a must for those seeking blue cheese nirvana. Witty cheese comment or something.

 

Campo de Montablan, More La Mancha Masticatibles

No.
This blog is not reaching you through 
THE CLOUD.
Still, I hope you can be satisfied with the usual slur of bad wordplay, flippant references, and snobbish cheese talk. If not.... then you probably never liked this blog in the first place. You're probably lost, adrift  on the endless interwaves, looking for an island of safety from which to launch your own Wilsonian adventure. Look no further, weary traveler, than these cheese-washed shores. 

There is in fact a cheese today, for those of you with the patience to bear with my wandering thought-dreams. It is a Spanish gem, reminiscent of a preiviously posted cheese; Iberico. Made from the mixed milks of goat, cow, and sheep, it promises to please. Perhaps not an earthshattering curd, but for those looking to collect a comprehensive understanding of the cheeses of the world (that's probably you if you're still reading, alternatively you just know me personally) it is a great addition.

Origin: La Mancha, Spain
Milk: Pasteurized goat, cow, and sheep
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 4-6 months
Notes: The rind is a little deceiving, sporting the same herringbone design as Manchego. Manchego it is not, as that's a sheep's milk only affair.
Thoughts: Admittedly, the similarities to Iberico are hard to miss. The same indescribable mix of milks plays off of, well, itself, to bring an excitingly unique flavor profile. Unique except for Iberico. Pseudo-unique (because that's definitely not an absolute term or anything, right guys?). Oily and grassy, as any self-respecting Spanish cheese ought to be, it is actually very good by itself. The rich savoriness alone makes this cheese well worth trying and hints of the sweet goat and cow's milk bring a measured complexity. Although it is a rather firm cheese the creaminess is certainly present to carry all of these flavor notes through strongly and, in this Cheese Addict's book, it has just as much right to a place on the cheese plate as any other (Iberico) cheese.












THE CLOOOOOOOUUUUUUUUDDDDDDD!!!!!!

Pyrenees, Still Loving that French Sheep Cheese

Floral sheep milk. This is the most important thing to know about these is contained in those three magical words. It's pretty much all you need to know. I'm going to go ahead and leave it there.

Origin: Basque Country, France

Milk: Sheep, unpasteurized

Rennet: Animal

Affinage: 3 months

Notes: It's a good, honest, Basque country cheese, which means you can count on solid flavor and a subtle but worthwhile profile. 

Thoughts: The first impression of this cheese is the milky creaminess. It appears quickly and coats the entire palate, not abating until the bite is almost over. Along with this wave of milky goodness is a savory but not overpowering flavor of grassy sheep’s milk, and the typical bite of the raw milk is replaced by a depth and complexity of flavor that leaves a tangy and sweet aftertaste. 

Sorry this guy is pretty short, the Functioning Cheese Addict just got a new toy in the mail today and is stepping into the future even as he posts this. Who knows, the next post could come from..... THE CLOUD. 

Or at least I think that's how it works.

Quadrello di Bufala, Washed Rind Lovers Rejoice!

You know how you'll hear people sometimes say "if only they would cast [actor] in [role], he was made for it", or [if only [politician] had a chance of winning [office]", or perhaps more likely "if only [sports sports sports sports sports idon'tevenknow]"? Maybe you do know, but even if you don't bear with me. Anyone who has tried the delightful Taleggio knows just how good washed rind cheeses can be, but the more creative might have considered an even more decadent possibility; swapping that plain-jane cow's milk out for some buffalo milk. 

Well.

Someone went and did just that. Ladies and Gentlemongers; Quadrello di Bufala.

Origin: Italy, as in the Sunny Shores Of

Milk: Buffalo, pasteurized

Rennet: Animal

Affinage: 1-2 months

Notes: Pretty much all you need to know is that buffalo milk has even more fats and proteins than sheep's milk and considerably more than cow's or goat's milk. That is pretty exciting from a flavor standpoint. 

Thoughts:

 Everything you could hope for when you hear the words “water buffalo” and “Tallegio” in the same sentence. The depth of flavor is instantly noticeable through the still young presence of the water buffalo milk. Every last fatty atom of this cheese cries out in an chorus of cheesy cheer, and that’s not even taking into account that it’s a washed rind. Whoever it was that wanted a meatier Tallegio must have been a genius because I could swap this out for ground beef in my next hamburger and probably never go back. The salt is perfectly balanced to draw forth the flavor and linger shortly before being overwhelmed by the sheer creaminess of this paste, and the overall effect is dark but sweet and salty, meaty but incredibly clean. I love cow’s milk Tallegio. I will always love cow’s milk Tallegio. I just may not be as in love with it as I am with this one.

The world needs more buffalo milk. I want a buffalo milk milkshake, buffalo ice cream, buffalo milk product cappuccino. Quick, someone call Starbucks. We'll call it a Bufala. 

Pecorino Foglie de Noce, Italian for Delicious Cheese You Should Try

Everyone has heard of Pecorino this and Pecorino that, but where is a truly exciting Italian sheep's milk cheese when you need one? I know I'm always asking myself that question, as I'm sure you are as well. My usual go-to would be the fantastic Pecorino Ginepro, but there is a newcomer, a challenger, a rival. Actually this cheese is pretty oldschool, but in any case here you have it folks: Pecorino Foglie de Noce. It is a standard-aged Pecorino with the twist that it has been aged while wrapped in walnut leaves and rubbed down with olive oil. Yes, that is in fact an equation for delicious. 

Origin: Italy

Milk: Sheep, unpasteurized

Rennet: Animal

Affinage: 2-4 months

Notes: Just goes to show that a little olive oil rubbing goes a long way. 

Thoughts: A subtle but deep flavor characterizes this cheese, so reserved that it takes a decent chunk just to pick up on its finer notes. The usual pecorino saltiness is present but a nutty, almost smoky tone develops and carries the cheese. This must be thanks to that olive oil treatment, and it is something to relish. Devoid of practically any creaminess and aged to crumbly perfection, this one may be a little harder to love by itself but give it a chance in recipes or on a plate with some olives and you’ll be in for a treat.

Anyone out there know the name of that one song that starts with the bass line "ba-bum bum bum bum bum ba-ba-baba ba-bum bum bum bum bum ba-ba baba ba-bum bum".... bluesy song.... in pretty much every move/commercial since the dawn of time.... anyone? 

Montenebro, Also Known as Montenebraaaaaaaah

Actually the pronunciation is closer to MON-teh-NEY-bro, but when life hands you bro jokes you run with them. 

In a nutshell I have been a bad blogger and neglected whatever fans I actually have with two straight missed posts. Today you get three as a humble apology. I know, I know: Wildest dreams and all that.

I do so love goat cheese and am always looking for the next fix, so today's first cheese really caught my eye. Hanging out in the Spanish section of the store, alongside such champions as Capricho de Cabra, it had a lot to live up to from the start. Fortunately for me and now you all, Montenebro does not disappoint. 

Origin: Avila, Spain

Milk: Goat, pastuerized

Rennet: Animal

Affinage: 4 weeks

Notes: That lovely rind it has is a result of an inoculation of Penicillium Roqueforti. The flavor is not at all like that of a blue cheese, but the rind does show a little kick thanks to this creative touch.

Thoughts: A mature and sharp but still complex paste makes up the center of this lovely cheese, and even though it has serious presence for a goat cheese that doesn’t translate into an overly chalky texture. Somehow nutty as well as the usual sweet and tangy, this really is a treat. It is, however, a bite of the whole cheese, rind included, that betrays the true genius of this cheese. A substantial creamline gives a heavenly texture as well as even more kick and the Roqueforti rind tosses in both a pleasantly contrasting texture and an extra little zing at the end. Decadent could describe it; a brilliantly executed surface ripened goat cheese.

Truth be told I just recently bought and documented about five new cheeses, an exciting and overdue time at this Cheese Addicts house, so today you get some fresh off the presses. Not that that metaphor has any real meaning in this context.

Camembert de Normandie, This Just Got Real

Of course, if you live anywhere in Europe you can get real anytime, given the will to find a half decent cheeserie and cough up a few ducats. Honestly though, this was a glorious day for me; when I came across and bought a wheel of true blue Camembert de Normandie. I almost couldn't believe that such an unassuming little disk as it could really be all that Camembert should be, but I was a quick convert. Make no mistake, this is as far removed from your grocery store "camembert" as that stuff on top of your pizza is from Mozarella di Bufala. I have seen people convert to Camembert on the spot after trying it, and if you ever get the chance to try some you will certainly see why. 

Origin: Normandie, France

Milk: Cow, unpasteurized

Rennet: Animal

Affinage: 2-4 weeks

Notes: AOC controlled and carried in characteristic wooden boxes following an ancient tradition of.... wooden boxes. 

Thoughts: Smoother than silk, the paste of this cheese at room temperature is to die for. The flavor begins sweet and then builds up to a richly garlicky and mushroomy decadence. A note of spicy tang kicks in in the middle and works into a mild burn in the aftertaste thanks to help from the rind. The whole experience is incredibly savory while still having certain milky qualities to it and is so smooth from start to finish you just want to take a bite out of the disk and let it dissolve on the palate. 

Soon-to-be-graduated Functioning Cheese Addict is looking to open a Cheeserie/Breaderie/Winerie with motivated business associates and possibly a handful of generous backers. What could be so tough about mastering three ancient arts?