Monday, May 30, 2011

Raclette, The Hipster Fondue

The fondue fad was long over by the time my generation made its first bold steps on this Earth, but just like those (now "retro") logo tees, everything beatnik, and caring about oil prices; these cheese parties are back after dropping off the radar in the 1990s.
What most people don't know is that Fondue has some serious competition in the form of another Franco-Swiss collaboration; Raclette. It is a cheese, yes, but more importantly it is a dish, a meal, a party, an experience. I'll touch on the cheese itself but it really has one purpose in life; to facilitate the throwing of a Raclette Party.

Origin: Switzerland, also Savoie, France
Milk: Cow, unpasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 3-6 months
Notes: I first tried it just by itself before even hearing about raclette parties, truly an amateur move. Wasn't bad then either but the raw flavor shocked my American tastebuds, unaccustomed as they were to its particular nuance and bite.
Thoughts: My original notes on this cheese describe it as a milky but notably salty cheese that has a good texture and breaks apart nicely on the palate but is "probably better melted."
With that understatement of a segue, let us move on to both my in depth thoughts on the dish and this week's handy tips section!!
The real pleasure of this cheese comes, logically enough, when one eats it as it was supposed to be eaten; heated, melted and scraped (French "racler"- to scrape) onto a plate of assorted goodies. Just what goodies are these you ask? This is, of course, a matter of personal preference to some extent, but allow me to put forth some suggestions. Peppers, onions, pre-cooked potatoes, olives, and all manner of thinly cut meats or even "bacon bits" (or charcuterie for the sophistocants among us) are absolutely to die for. Mushrooms, baby gherkins, baby corn, and all other manner of veggies can also be cut up and grilled on a heating element or simply covered in the melted cheese and enjoyed raw.
The method for having such a party varies depending on the device being used, but while there are two basic models all one really needs is a way to melt the cheese gently, lots of accompaniments, and a large appetite. The one featured in the picture allows you to grill veggies and meats on top, usually with a healthy serving of olive oil, and then place them and a slice of the cheese in a tray that sits beneath the heating element until the whole mixture can be scraped onto a plate or, better yet, a slice of baguette.
Another version simply holds the whole wheel of Raclette facing a heating element and then swivels to allow the most melted bits to be scraped off onto plates, definitely a delicious idea but not one I've seen used yet. In any case most stores in Europe will sell the cheese pre-sliced and ready to complete the first method, but like I said all you really need is the cheese and heat. It doesn't help that these devices can get rather pricey, especially in the US where they're not quite as well known.
The focus here really is on the shared atmosphere, as people jostle for room on the grilling surface, pass different accompaniments around, and talk as their cheesy mixtures melt to a perfectly decadent state under the heating element. Wine is usually involved, though beer or any non-alcoholic beverage could also cut through the rich saltiness of the cheese and the savoriness of the dish as a whole, and in general these are not quick meals for small groups. Instead as many people as can fit around the table can bring individual accompaniments, everyone helps in prepping the veggies and meats for grilling, and once all is ready the pace is then set first by the time it takes to grill, melt, and eat, and later by however long it takes to finish up all the ingredients. The cheese tastes, in my opinion, better than fondue cheese mixtures and the whole experience is at once very communal and very personal. I've been fortunate enough to enjoy a few such parties out here and it's definitely on the list of things to bring back, a seriously delicious variety of cheese party.

Caution
As if the idea that cheese parties aren't filling is not false anyways, prepare to be stuffed at a Raclette party. You might consider fasting for the day leading up to it. 

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