So here's the thing.
As it stands I've got enough cheeses already documented to post 4 or 5 a week for the next 9 months, but what fun would that be when we could have a cheese a day for 6 months! Yes yes I know this sounds too good to be true and, depending on my schoolwork over the next few months, it may just be. Still it's worth a shot, so starting Monday you'll be getting your dose of cheesy goodness daily and, as ever, with a smile. More fun news to follow, but you're not here for chit-chatting, jabberjawing, or chin wagging, you're here for cheese.
I've avoided themes thus far because, around the tenth or so "France" themed post for example, there would eventually be some grumbling among the crowd (however small that crowd may be). I made it a whole four posts before caving, here's to willpower. The truth is I adore goat cheese. It's the closest to a favorite type of cheese that I have and, fortunately for myself and my fellow capercaseophiles, there is an absolute wealth of choices out there. Some better than others, here continues my guided tour of the wide world of goat cheese.
We begin with a selection that the casual goat cheese enthusiast will likely recognize and which is at home on any cheese plate: The Drunken Goat. Hailing from the town of Jumilla in the Murcia region of Spain, this is effectively the gateway drug into the world of wine-bathed cheese.
Origin: Murcia, Spain
Milk: Goat, pasteurized
Rennet: Animal enzyme
Affinage: 75 days
Notes: Soaked in Doble Pasta red wine for 48-72 hours. The cheese, that is. The goat just had a glass. This cheese is also name-protected under Spanish law.
Thoughts: The bone-white, semi-firm paste that is so characteristic of aged goat cheeses is enticing enough, but just upon unwrapping this treat it becomes clear that the vino-bath paid off. The aroma, while not overwhelming, is pronounced and, combined with the purple/brownish coloring that covers the rind and seeps ever so faintly into the paste, will make you start to wonder what else could be improved with 3 days curing in wine. Truth be told the cheese itself is a fairly average, if respectable, example of slightly aged goat cheese. The flavor remains mild from start to finish and the usually pronounced "tang"of the goat's milk is hardly noticeable at all. The texture is well balanced and creamy enough to somewhat make up for the understated flavor but I would trade a drier texture for a sharper flavor. The natural sweetness of the goat's milk does, however, compliment the sweet and fruity tones imparted by the wine bath, leaving you with a cheese that serves as a wonderful introduction to the subgroup of "drunken" cheeses. There are others, such as Irish porter and whiskey cheddars and Italian Ubriacos, but these tend to sour the less adventurous sampler with their intensity. Don't dismay, they're coming.
Drunken Goat gets seven arbitrary units of measurement out of ten, but this next cheese needs no introduction. Rather it deserves no introduction.
Landana Mild Goat
Origin: Netherlands
Milk: Goat, pasteurized
Rennet: Think the drummer from the Muppets
Affinage: 6-8 Weeks
Notes: Unmistakably cheese.
Yessir.
Thoughts: The sad truth is that there just isn't a whole lot to say about this cheese. I recall it was one of the first cheeses I recorded and photographed, distinguished by my short-lived habit of photographing the label along with the cheese, and I remember being generally disappointed to then find myself with sizable block of forgettable cheese. This was back when I was a cheese fiend sans employment, and when the checks aren't coming you can't afford to throw money away on sub-par Käse. The flavor is beyond mild, the only marginally noticeable characteristic being a hint of sweetness. The texture and creaminess would be suitable if there was any flavor to discern, but this the celery of goat cheeses, you'd die of boredom before it filled you up. My advice? Either find some bread and jelly or skip the middleman and just eat the peanut butter off the spoon. Maybe that's a bit harsh, and if you happen to find the black wax label 10 month aged Landana Goat Old do let me know what you think, but there just aren't any redeeming qualities to this cheese. There are lessons to be learned from this:
1) Not all that is imported is made of gold, the Europeans get it wrong too, and
2) Young goat Gouda is no better than young cow Gouda, they both belong on sandwiches not serving platters.
Don't worry, today's third cheese is a standalone rockstar and more than makes up for Landana's lack of character and flavor, but first some more news. The astute Sherlock Holmesian (Dr. Houseian?) reader will notice a new addition on the sidebar; some difficult to read and overly flowery text (I really must fire the intern responsible for all these run-on sentences of late). Directly below that paragraph there is a link to what may be simultaneously the most laughable and most telling sign of my addiction: my quick-reference cheese chart. Once upon a time I was a student of engineering, a well informed decision I made based on 18 years of enjoying playing with Lego, not hating math classes and a dream of one day earning money. That story ended in tears (I realized I'd rather work with travel and politics than numbers and dirt) but i maintained my tendencies of over-analyzing and over-organizing.
The result is the cheese chart, containing the basic traits of all the cheeses I could find, as best as I could find them. I will admit not every box is checked, but in general the important information is there. A note on pasteurization and rennet type: if you are unsure about either and are greatly concerned, find a cheese you can be certain about. That being said cheese that is not labeled in any way as being microbial or vegetarian friendly can be safely assumed to use animal rennet; it is a big enough selling point that most manufacturers will want to make their animal-friendly ways known. As for pasteurization, international cheeses that do not specify "raw milk" "rohmilch" au lait cru" or "leche sin/no pasteurizar"will typically be be pasteurized, especially considering the legal difficulties with importing raw dairy products. As for domestic cheese, the vast majority will be pasteurized, thanks again to the tastebud-impared folks at the USFDA. Those that aren't will be marked but again, although I personally think the only real danger of eating unpasteurized cheese is having your mind blown in a flavor explosion, if you are seriously concerned then stick to the pasteurized stuff. Pasteurization deserves its own post and will get it soon.
In any case I hope this resources is in some way helpful to those looking for a fresh French goat cheese or an unpasteurized cheddar or what have you, and of course I am always eager to answer cheese queries and help with pairings, platters ideas, and other manifestations of my addiction. The email address in my profile. PS: if you like the blog so much that you want to know when it's updated feel free to "follow" The Functioning Cheese Addict and make your addiction public as well. That link is also hiding on the left.
Now for the main attraction, the Titan of Tuber Tastiness, the Giant of Goaty Goodness, here all the way from Cypress Grove Chevre in California; Truffle Tremor. Cypress Grove represents what is truly the pinnacle of domestic goat cheese production, accept no substitutes. Their lineup is consistently incredible and varies from delicate fresh chevre to perfectly surface ripened gems to the best goat Gouda I have yet tried. Truffle Tremor is one of their more adventurous products but if decadent is what you're after then look no further.
Origin: California, USA
Milk: Goat, pasteurized
Rennet: Full-fledged, no chicken no fish vegetarian.
Affinage: Up to one month
Notes: This particular specimen is on the older side of the surface-ripened cheese hill, as seen in the size of the creamline (or proteolysis), that bit bit between the soft white rind and the paste. Furthermore this cheese is made with black truffles, or tuber aestivum vittadini. Science Rules!
Thoughts: First of all, if that picture is not enough to encourage you to go out and purchase a wedge right away, well there may just be nothing more I can do for you. Even this rather aged variety maintains a soft and fluffy rind, yes this is one of those rinds you should definitely eat, while also showing how the proteolysis is slowly consuming the bone-white paste. Cheese is alive, true story. That process is the cheese naturally aging, as surface-ripened cheeses are apt to do, up until the point that you eat them, offering a lot of control over how sharp, creamy, and acidic you want your cheese experience to be. Truffle Tremor is a delight at any stage, but in this more mature state it truly defines the word decadent. The paste of the cheese is sharp and very rich, taking full advantage of the creamy goat's milk but maintaining a clean feel. Savory without being the least bit earthy, it combines with the milky creamline and the extra kick from the rind to create a flavor that is complex but not muddled. Throughout all of this is the steady umami kick of the truffles is present and adds yet another dimension of flavor, one distinct but so refined that it almost gets lost in the mix, preferring to remain relatively in the background from start to finish. This cheese is the first to go at parties, it is the favorite, it is All-Star Quarterback Johnny Footballplayer, it is Ms. Overachieving Social Butterfly/Homecoming Queen/Yearbook Editor-in-Chief. Buy a wedge, leave it wrapped up but unrefrigerated for about a half an hour on your kitchen counter, cancel your evening plans, and get your baguette on.
Caution
The USFDA recommends that pregnant and nursing women and anyone with a weakened immune system avoids unpasteurized milk and dairy products. Your health is ultimately more important than trying every cheese out there, and there are lots of good pasteurized cheeses to be had.
On the other hand, the US Government also recommends avoiding travel to Bosnia, Kosovo, Albania, Serbia, China, and the Caucasus. Really only one way to find out what all the fuss is about.
Just Sayin'
As it stands I've got enough cheeses already documented to post 4 or 5 a week for the next 9 months, but what fun would that be when we could have a cheese a day for 6 months! Yes yes I know this sounds too good to be true and, depending on my schoolwork over the next few months, it may just be. Still it's worth a shot, so starting Monday you'll be getting your dose of cheesy goodness daily and, as ever, with a smile. More fun news to follow, but you're not here for chit-chatting, jabberjawing, or chin wagging, you're here for cheese.
I've avoided themes thus far because, around the tenth or so "France" themed post for example, there would eventually be some grumbling among the crowd (however small that crowd may be). I made it a whole four posts before caving, here's to willpower. The truth is I adore goat cheese. It's the closest to a favorite type of cheese that I have and, fortunately for myself and my fellow capercaseophiles, there is an absolute wealth of choices out there. Some better than others, here continues my guided tour of the wide world of goat cheese.
We begin with a selection that the casual goat cheese enthusiast will likely recognize and which is at home on any cheese plate: The Drunken Goat. Hailing from the town of Jumilla in the Murcia region of Spain, this is effectively the gateway drug into the world of wine-bathed cheese.
Milk: Goat, pasteurized
Rennet: Animal enzyme
Affinage: 75 days
Notes: Soaked in Doble Pasta red wine for 48-72 hours. The cheese, that is. The goat just had a glass. This cheese is also name-protected under Spanish law.
Thoughts: The bone-white, semi-firm paste that is so characteristic of aged goat cheeses is enticing enough, but just upon unwrapping this treat it becomes clear that the vino-bath paid off. The aroma, while not overwhelming, is pronounced and, combined with the purple/brownish coloring that covers the rind and seeps ever so faintly into the paste, will make you start to wonder what else could be improved with 3 days curing in wine. Truth be told the cheese itself is a fairly average, if respectable, example of slightly aged goat cheese. The flavor remains mild from start to finish and the usually pronounced "tang"of the goat's milk is hardly noticeable at all. The texture is well balanced and creamy enough to somewhat make up for the understated flavor but I would trade a drier texture for a sharper flavor. The natural sweetness of the goat's milk does, however, compliment the sweet and fruity tones imparted by the wine bath, leaving you with a cheese that serves as a wonderful introduction to the subgroup of "drunken" cheeses. There are others, such as Irish porter and whiskey cheddars and Italian Ubriacos, but these tend to sour the less adventurous sampler with their intensity. Don't dismay, they're coming.
Drunken Goat gets seven arbitrary units of measurement out of ten, but this next cheese needs no introduction. Rather it deserves no introduction.
Landana Mild Goat
Milk: Goat, pasteurized
Rennet: Think the drummer from the Muppets
Affinage: 6-8 Weeks
Notes: Unmistakably cheese.
Yessir.
Thoughts: The sad truth is that there just isn't a whole lot to say about this cheese. I recall it was one of the first cheeses I recorded and photographed, distinguished by my short-lived habit of photographing the label along with the cheese, and I remember being generally disappointed to then find myself with sizable block of forgettable cheese. This was back when I was a cheese fiend sans employment, and when the checks aren't coming you can't afford to throw money away on sub-par Käse. The flavor is beyond mild, the only marginally noticeable characteristic being a hint of sweetness. The texture and creaminess would be suitable if there was any flavor to discern, but this the celery of goat cheeses, you'd die of boredom before it filled you up. My advice? Either find some bread and jelly or skip the middleman and just eat the peanut butter off the spoon. Maybe that's a bit harsh, and if you happen to find the black wax label 10 month aged Landana Goat Old do let me know what you think, but there just aren't any redeeming qualities to this cheese. There are lessons to be learned from this:
1) Not all that is imported is made of gold, the Europeans get it wrong too, and
2) Young goat Gouda is no better than young cow Gouda, they both belong on sandwiches not serving platters.
Don't worry, today's third cheese is a standalone rockstar and more than makes up for Landana's lack of character and flavor, but first some more news. The astute Sherlock Holmesian (Dr. Houseian?) reader will notice a new addition on the sidebar; some difficult to read and overly flowery text (I really must fire the intern responsible for all these run-on sentences of late). Directly below that paragraph there is a link to what may be simultaneously the most laughable and most telling sign of my addiction: my quick-reference cheese chart. Once upon a time I was a student of engineering, a well informed decision I made based on 18 years of enjoying playing with Lego, not hating math classes and a dream of one day earning money. That story ended in tears (I realized I'd rather work with travel and politics than numbers and dirt) but i maintained my tendencies of over-analyzing and over-organizing.
The result is the cheese chart, containing the basic traits of all the cheeses I could find, as best as I could find them. I will admit not every box is checked, but in general the important information is there. A note on pasteurization and rennet type: if you are unsure about either and are greatly concerned, find a cheese you can be certain about. That being said cheese that is not labeled in any way as being microbial or vegetarian friendly can be safely assumed to use animal rennet; it is a big enough selling point that most manufacturers will want to make their animal-friendly ways known. As for pasteurization, international cheeses that do not specify "raw milk" "rohmilch" au lait cru" or "leche sin/no pasteurizar"will typically be be pasteurized, especially considering the legal difficulties with importing raw dairy products. As for domestic cheese, the vast majority will be pasteurized, thanks again to the tastebud-impared folks at the USFDA. Those that aren't will be marked but again, although I personally think the only real danger of eating unpasteurized cheese is having your mind blown in a flavor explosion, if you are seriously concerned then stick to the pasteurized stuff. Pasteurization deserves its own post and will get it soon.
In any case I hope this resources is in some way helpful to those looking for a fresh French goat cheese or an unpasteurized cheddar or what have you, and of course I am always eager to answer cheese queries and help with pairings, platters ideas, and other manifestations of my addiction. The email address in my profile. PS: if you like the blog so much that you want to know when it's updated feel free to "follow" The Functioning Cheese Addict and make your addiction public as well. That link is also hiding on the left.
Now for the main attraction, the Titan of Tuber Tastiness, the Giant of Goaty Goodness, here all the way from Cypress Grove Chevre in California; Truffle Tremor. Cypress Grove represents what is truly the pinnacle of domestic goat cheese production, accept no substitutes. Their lineup is consistently incredible and varies from delicate fresh chevre to perfectly surface ripened gems to the best goat Gouda I have yet tried. Truffle Tremor is one of their more adventurous products but if decadent is what you're after then look no further.
Milk: Goat, pasteurized
Rennet: Full-fledged, no chicken no fish vegetarian.
Affinage: Up to one month
Notes: This particular specimen is on the older side of the surface-ripened cheese hill, as seen in the size of the creamline (or proteolysis), that bit bit between the soft white rind and the paste. Furthermore this cheese is made with black truffles, or tuber aestivum vittadini. Science Rules!
Thoughts: First of all, if that picture is not enough to encourage you to go out and purchase a wedge right away, well there may just be nothing more I can do for you. Even this rather aged variety maintains a soft and fluffy rind, yes this is one of those rinds you should definitely eat, while also showing how the proteolysis is slowly consuming the bone-white paste. Cheese is alive, true story. That process is the cheese naturally aging, as surface-ripened cheeses are apt to do, up until the point that you eat them, offering a lot of control over how sharp, creamy, and acidic you want your cheese experience to be. Truffle Tremor is a delight at any stage, but in this more mature state it truly defines the word decadent. The paste of the cheese is sharp and very rich, taking full advantage of the creamy goat's milk but maintaining a clean feel. Savory without being the least bit earthy, it combines with the milky creamline and the extra kick from the rind to create a flavor that is complex but not muddled. Throughout all of this is the steady umami kick of the truffles is present and adds yet another dimension of flavor, one distinct but so refined that it almost gets lost in the mix, preferring to remain relatively in the background from start to finish. This cheese is the first to go at parties, it is the favorite, it is All-Star Quarterback Johnny Footballplayer, it is Ms. Overachieving Social Butterfly/Homecoming Queen/Yearbook Editor-in-Chief. Buy a wedge, leave it wrapped up but unrefrigerated for about a half an hour on your kitchen counter, cancel your evening plans, and get your baguette on.
Caution
The USFDA recommends that pregnant and nursing women and anyone with a weakened immune system avoids unpasteurized milk and dairy products. Your health is ultimately more important than trying every cheese out there, and there are lots of good pasteurized cheeses to be had.
On the other hand, the US Government also recommends avoiding travel to Bosnia, Kosovo, Albania, Serbia, China, and the Caucasus. Really only one way to find out what all the fuss is about.
Just Sayin'
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi Juliane, I have indeed tried Reblochon and will happily post it soon, though I'm afraid it might be hard to come by in the USA, it's a little raw you see. In the meantime you might try to find a brie on the pungent side, just make sure you go for the garlic and mushroom flavors rather than the plastic-y and tasteless brie imitations. Either ask specifically at a good counter or, if you can, look perhaps for Rogue et Noir Brie at the Cheese Importers. It's at least on the right track and will be a closer substitution for the recipe than just any old "brie" at a supermarket. Hope that helps!
ReplyDeleteFCA