Monday, January 23, 2012

Morbier, Morbi-HEY!

Dear Readers,  
They rhyme, you see. 
A lot of you folks might have heard of this particular French specialty, but I just realized I had not yet shared it with you, my internet friends. Here it is. Morbier
It is in fact pronounced morbi-yay, which makes it one of the happier and more joyful cheeses out there. It gets its characteristic streak of ash from a little story of old. Back in the day they would take the morning milking and layer those curds into the bottom of the form, and then cover that with a layer of vegetable ash to preserve it throughout the day. That evening the second milking would go on top of the first, giving the final cheese a layer of ash with both form and function. These days they do it just to keep up the tradition, but we like it anyways. The same ash system is seen in modern cheeses such as Humboldt Fog, and it is pretty sexy. You know, for a cheese. 
Origin: Franche-Comté, France 
Milk: Cow, raw or pasteurized
Affinage: up to 2 or 3 months
Rennet: Animal
Notes: Part-Skim milk, and the sweet aroma and yellow-orange rind of a washed-cheese.
Thoughts:  This cheese is mild at first but the creamy goodness develops into a delicious semi-soft morsel. The flavor is meaty and not as harsh as some French cheeses, and although the smell is definitely that of a washed-rind the bark is, as always, worse than its bite. There is a lot of differentiation among brands here, so make sure you are a diligent cheese shopper. Ask that stout yeoman, demand a sample, give it the old smell-test. If it doesn't smell like much, you don't want it. This is a cheese to be warmed up, served with some salami and bread, and washed down with a hearty red. Or pop, I don't know. 

The cool dairy kids use volcanic vegetable ash. From them volcanoes. Truth.    

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Beecher's Marco Polo, Marco, Polo, Marco, Polo, Marco

Rarely do we find cheeses named for popular pool playtime activites, but here is one such cheese. To be perfectly frank I can't decide if their naming method makes the most sense to me. Their website credits the great explorer for bringing spices and peppercorn back to the Old World, but we don't call all fur products Lewis and Clarks, or all... all... there's a Christopher Coloumbus joke to make here but I feel like it'd be in bad taste.
Fortunately, what's in good taste is this cheese. Beecher's Marco Polo is a rare exception to my rule of no shenanigans in my cheddar. By shenanigans, of course, I mean things that aren't milk, rennet, salt, or starters. This would usually include black peppercorns and most certainly includes peppers, garlic, horseradish, and, heaven help us, maple smokiness of questionable origin. In the case of Beecher's, though, the cheese is already so good that they get away with it. 
Origin: Seattle, Washington, USA
Milk: Cow, pasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 4-6 months
Notes: Milled green and black peppercorns from Madagascar. Perhaps not the most locavore of choices, but true enough to its name. So.... check that one off the bucket list.... eat Madagascar peppercorns. Yup.
Thoughts: Sweet and nutty are immediately met with the dark and spicy notes from the peppercorn, but no one flavor ever overpowers the other. The rich and almost chocolatey nature of the cheddar is the perfect match for the spice of the peppercorn, and the already delectable texture of their cheddar is only highlighted by the occasional crunch. The aftertaste is one of a slight heat, peppery of course but deliciously so, and overall the cheese proves that flavors can be added without making the entire experience dull, heavy, and boring.


Mad Men is like miracle gro for the old man in me.

Monday, January 16, 2012

Lou Bergier Pinchin, The Cheese Of The House

Actually, the name means Father of the House, but this a cheese blog, after all. 
This is no ordinary cheese, this is actually one of those crazy progressive tree-hugging earth-saving vegetarian cheeses. Watch out, I hear they only eat whey. Or something. 
But really, though, this is fun even as vegetarian cheeses go. It doesn't use the usual thistle nonsense, instead it's the so-called Kinara Method, with alpine flowers only. This is a fun and oldschool system, but it certainly works cheese magic. The name is in reference to Nonno Magno, the grandfather of the founder, and all that Italian familial love is present in the rich paste of Lou Bergier Pinchin
Origin: Piedmont, Italy
Milk: Cow, unpasteurized
Rennet: Crazy Kinara vegetarian
Affinage: 60 days
Notes: Don't be put off by the natural and soft rind, it's definitely still delicious. Funky though it may look, it's a keeper. 
Thoughts: Chewy, ultra creamy, this cheese has everything. Meat notes. Salt notes. More meat notes. More salt notes. Nothing like Italian cheeses to make you think you're eating steak. Delicious milky steak. The texture is what sets this apart, chewy and sticky, it melts on the palate once it heats up. It has a Mochi-like beginning texture, with a milky and fully over-the-top creaminess carrying the flavor along. Mushroom and garlic tag along because, hey, who doesn't like them?


Flat tires on my car tried to kill the Cheese, but the cheese overcame it with the power of awesomeness and tire patches!!!!!

Friday, January 13, 2012

Neufchâtel, Super Delicious and Super Unimportable

Some people go their entire lives and never eat really incredible cheese. There are some cheeses that require expeditions, quests, life plans. Neufchâtel is one of those cheeses. Not much of a crazy story for this one, but here's what I have. This was one of those cheeses I had been looking to try when I was in Germany, and sure enough my local stout yeoman always had some on hand. I got the prized heart slice, which meant both a super delicious and a super messy piece. Here it is, folks, a cheese to definitely try if you're ever in France. 
Origin: Normandie, France
Milk: Cow, unpasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 6-8 weeks
Notes: Name controlled cheese, 45% fat content. Melts like buttah. 
Thoughts: Though the chalky, almost crumbly paste is dry at first it is decadently sharp and full of salty/sweet goodness. As it breaks down a dark creaminess covers the palate and the fatty richness takes over with notes of grass and mushrooms fighing their way though. Mine had lost a little of its structural integrity on the way home from the store (it was a little hot that day) but this displays all the better the different parts of this surface ripened beauty. The rind and creamline themselves form a sensational pair, every bit as smooth and unassuming at first as you could hope but building into a pretty decent bite towards the end and on into the aftertaste. Combine some of the creamy, milky interior with this spicy shell and you get a flavor sensation that is hard to beat, truly a testament to the power of a good French cheese. 


I am a little sad to be using up these delicious unpasteurized cheeses, I won't be able to replace them with new entries until my next visit. What's a functioning cheese addict to do?

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Herve Mons Meule de Savoie, FROM THE CLOUD!

That's right. The future is now.
This post, albeit late, is from the future. Is from the cloud.
That's exciting to me, at least. Even more exciting, a new cheese! The stoutish yeoman at a national natural food chain which shall not be named pointed me to this when pressed for Beaufort. Herve Mons Meule de Savoie is not Beaufort, but it's still awful good.
Origin: Savoie, France
Milk: Cow, raw
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 10 months
Notes: Imbued with extra cloudiness. It's... cloudy. That's also why the format is all wonky.
Thoughts: A rich creaminess starts off a fully chocolatey and nutty experience, quite a bit moister than most gruyere style cheeses. It is tangy in all the right places and has just a tiny crunch from the caesin to really round out the texture. It's not the strongest of flavored but is very well fulled out. The cheese breaks down nicely on the palate and has notes of fruit here and there among more prominent sweet tones.

La la thoughts la cloud la la ka