Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Quadrello di Bufala, Washed Rind Lovers Rejoice!

You know how you'll hear people sometimes say "if only they would cast [actor] in [role], he was made for it", or [if only [politician] had a chance of winning [office]", or perhaps more likely "if only [sports sports sports sports sports idon'tevenknow]"? Maybe you do know, but even if you don't bear with me. Anyone who has tried the delightful Taleggio knows just how good washed rind cheeses can be, but the more creative might have considered an even more decadent possibility; swapping that plain-jane cow's milk out for some buffalo milk. 
Well.
Someone went and did just that. Ladies and Gentlemongers; Quadrello di Bufala.
Origin: Italy, as in the Sunny Shores Of
Milk: Buffalo, pasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 1-2 months
Notes: Pretty much all you need to know is that buffalo milk has even more fats and proteins than sheep's milk and considerably more than cow's or goat's milk. That is pretty exciting from a flavor standpoint. 
Thoughts:
 Everything you could hope for when you hear the words “water buffalo” and “Tallegio” in the same sentence. The depth of flavor is instantly noticeable through the still young presence of the water buffalo milk. Every last fatty atom of this cheese cries out in an chorus of cheesy cheer, and that’s not even taking into account that it’s a washed rind. Whoever it was that wanted a meatier Tallegio must have been a genius because I could swap this out for ground beef in my next hamburger and probably never go back. The salt is perfectly balanced to draw forth the flavor and linger shortly before being overwhelmed by the sheer creaminess of this paste, and the overall effect is dark but sweet and salty, meaty but incredibly clean. I love cow’s milk Tallegio. I will always love cow’s milk Tallegio. I just may not be as in love with it as I am with this one.


The world needs more buffalo milk. I want a buffalo milk milkshake, buffalo ice cream, buffalo milk product cappuccino. Quick, someone call Starbucks. We'll call it a Bufala. 

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Pecorino Foglie de Noce, Italian for Delicious Cheese You Should Try

Everyone has heard of Pecorino this and Pecorino that, but where is a truly exciting Italian sheep's milk cheese when you need one? I know I'm always asking myself that question, as I'm sure you are as well. My usual go-to would be the fantastic Pecorino Ginepro, but there is a newcomer, a challenger, a rival. Actually this cheese is pretty oldschool, but in any case here you have it folks: Pecorino Foglie de Noce. It is a standard-aged Pecorino with the twist that it has been aged while wrapped in walnut leaves and rubbed down with olive oil. Yes, that is in fact an equation for delicious. 
Origin: Italy
Milk: Sheep, unpasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 2-4 months
Notes: Just goes to show that a little olive oil rubbing goes a long way. 
Thoughts: A subtle but deep flavor characterizes this cheese, so reserved that it takes a decent chunk just to pick up on its finer notes. The usual pecorino saltiness is present but a nutty, almost smoky tone develops and carries the cheese. This must be thanks to that olive oil treatment, and it is something to relish. Devoid of practically any creaminess and aged to crumbly perfection, this one may be a little harder to love by itself but give it a chance in recipes or on a plate with some olives and you’ll be in for a treat.


Anyone out there know the name of that one song that starts with the bass line "ba-bum bum bum bum bum ba-ba-baba ba-bum bum bum bum bum ba-ba baba ba-bum bum".... bluesy song.... in pretty much every move/commercial since the dawn of time.... anyone? 

Montenebro, Also Known as Montenebraaaaaaaah

Actually the pronunciation is closer to MON-teh-NEY-bro, but when life hands you bro jokes you run with them. 
In a nutshell I have been a bad blogger and neglected whatever fans I actually have with two straight missed posts. Today you get three as a humble apology. I know, I know: Wildest dreams and all that.

I do so love goat cheese and am always looking for the next fix, so today's first cheese really caught my eye. Hanging out in the Spanish section of the store, alongside such champions as Capricho de Cabra, it had a lot to live up to from the start. Fortunately for me and now you all, Montenebro does not disappoint. 
Origin: Avila, Spain
Milk: Goat, pastuerized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 4 weeks
Notes: That lovely rind it has is a result of an inoculation of Penicillium Roqueforti. The flavor is not at all like that of a blue cheese, but the rind does show a little kick thanks to this creative touch.
Thoughts: A mature and sharp but still complex paste makes up the center of this lovely cheese, and even though it has serious presence for a goat cheese that doesn’t translate into an overly chalky texture. Somehow nutty as well as the usual sweet and tangy, this really is a treat. It is, however, a bite of the whole cheese, rind included, that betrays the true genius of this cheese. A substantial creamline gives a heavenly texture as well as even more kick and the Roqueforti rind tosses in both a pleasantly contrasting texture and an extra little zing at the end. Decadent could describe it; a brilliantly executed surface ripened goat cheese.


Truth be told I just recently bought and documented about five new cheeses, an exciting and overdue time at this Cheese Addicts house, so today you get some fresh off the presses. Not that that metaphor has any real meaning in this context.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Camembert de Normandie, This Just Got Real

Of course, if you live anywhere in Europe you can get real anytime, given the will to find a half decent cheeserie and cough up a few ducats. Honestly though, this was a glorious day for me; when I came across and bought a wheel of true blue Camembert de Normandie. I almost couldn't believe that such an unassuming little disk as it could really be all that Camembert should be, but I was a quick convert. Make no mistake, this is as far removed from your grocery store "camembert" as that stuff on top of your pizza is from Mozarella di Bufala. I have seen people convert to Camembert on the spot after trying it, and if you ever get the chance to try some you will certainly see why. 
Origin: Normandie, France
Milk: Cow, unpasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 2-4 weeks
Notes: AOC controlled and carried in characteristic wooden boxes following an ancient tradition of.... wooden boxes. 
Thoughts: Smoother than silk, the paste of this cheese at room temperature is to die for. The flavor begins sweet and then builds up to a richly garlicky and mushroomy decadence. A note of spicy tang kicks in in the middle and works into a mild burn in the aftertaste thanks to help from the rind. The whole experience is incredibly savory while still having certain milky qualities to it and is so smooth from start to finish you just want to take a bite out of the disk and let it dissolve on the palate. 


Soon-to-be-graduated Functioning Cheese Addict is looking to open a Cheeserie/Breaderie/Winerie with motivated business associates and possibly a handful of generous backers. What could be so tough about mastering three ancient arts? 

Friday, September 30, 2011

Mariolles, Raw France France Raw Raw France

Named for an abbey deep in the Ardennes forest, surrounded by the mighty trees of Ardennes forest, imbued with the aroma of the Ardennes forest, aged in the shadow of the Ardennes forest, packaged in boxes made with the wood of the Ardennes forest, reminiscent of the flavor of the bark of the Ardennes forest, there is a cheese. 
This cheese has a name. 
That name is Mariolles. 
It is from the Ardennes forest. 
Origin: The Ardennes forest... France
Milk: Cow, unpasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 3-4 weeks
Notes: Beer washed rind, 45% fat, ripened with herbs and brushed regularly to keep only that good red bacteria growing on the surface. It's got AOC status, too. So there you go. 
Thoughts: Every part of this cheese screams washed rind, from the goey-brie-like paste to the warning-orange-red rind to the savory and meaty flavor. A little sour, a little salty, in fact at first this cheese has a bold almost spicy flavor. For the bold at heart, though, there is a great reward. The rich flavor at the beginning warrants a taste by itself but it quickly drops off and reveals a mellow and intensely savory aftertaste, highlighted by a hint of fruit here and there. Thoroughly delicious and a prime example of why fortune favors the bold.



No hurt... no curd.....
No pain.... no Brillat Savarin?

Also:
You can't actually get the unpasteurized version of this cheese in the US... sorry.