Sunday, November 13, 2011

First Of All

This stout Yeoman would like to personally thank each and every one of you loyal interneters, extrabloggers, and webberseiters for still bothering to visit these dusty pages. If I had some valid excuse for not updating in the past two weeks I surely would have given a pseudo-update to that effect. So neglectful have I been that even apology mouse made an appearance. 

I'm sorry. 

That is not to say, however, that I have been away from the world of cheese for these past weeks. Far from it, I have been knee deep. Waist deep. Neck deep. Earlobe deep. Name a body part, I've probably been that deep in cheese. 

How is this, you ask? How does one man find his way into so much cheese? 
Intentionally. Also with the help of Groupon. Yeah yeah half price cheese heaven yeah. 

Not only have I sampled and documented some new cheeses, I have also had the supreme pleasure of attending my second cheese festival, this time held in Aurora, Colorado. By Aurora, I mean way deep off in the prarieland at the Arapahoe County Fairgrounds, more commonly home to cattle russtlin', sheep pennin' and other stereotypically western fare than fine artisan cheese exhibitions. That being said, it did the trick; this cheese festival was wild. I mean, I haven't had this much fun since I was abroad; it was just a warehouse full of people crazy about fine cheese, crackers, and wine. We need to have one of these in every major city, every month of the year. Really we need to have a more robust local food movement to provide the vendors for more of these events, but let's settle in our simplification for now. 

Upon driving out to the middle of nowhere (and by the way, on the corner of two streets whose names I forget there is a pair of very nice women selling home made cinnamon buns and coffee. I'm not much one for either, especially not at expensive cheese prices (you know, that standard price range), but they were pretty tasty. This is useless unless you frequent the Buckley Air Force Base area and are prone to a) getting lost and b) spontaneously buying roadside breakfasts, but while I have your attention I might as well ramble. Or something like that. I won't even close off that first parentheses. Just happened.

Cheese!

Cheese is why we're here. 
At this fairgrounds, inside the majestic halls, there were two main rooms. One was filled with a circuit of vendor stalls, offering samples as well as information, the other with workshops on cheese and other good stuff. I missed most of the workshops due to obsessive sampling, but I'm at peace with that. I ate a lot of cheese that day. The hall of cheese was also a hall of biscuits, wine, and other goodies, which meant that the whole booth circuit was pretty much a course in fine dining stuffs. After completing the hour or so tour the only workshop left was for soapmaking. Very good I'm sure, but non-edible, non-spreadable, and generally not the focus of this blogger's fancy. 

Let's not waste energy on what I didn't see, however, when what I did was something magical. Vendors from all over Colorado and coast to coast were there showing off their prime creations, making for a gastronomic joyride. It is truly a pleasure to find so many new cheeses and brands in one place and with samples of their finest wares literally set before you, and let me tell you, dear reader, that quality cheese is alive and well in the USA. Quite well, in fact. Not only that but, being a mature adult or something legally resembling one, I was able to purchase quality local wines to pair with my campaign of cheese. Not just wines, but there was some real quality biscuits there too, I mean super delicious like fig and almond delicious. Happy days, dear reader. Happy days. I could wish no greater cheese happiness for you than to attend such an event. 

For those of you living in the vicinty of Longmont Colorado, I have some great news: The Cheese Importers is now carrying a number of the outstanding cheeses on display and in the photos, and the rest should be available somewhere in CO at the very least. With that short, concise, and to-the-point-yea-the-spirit-of-brevity introduction, here is my photo-documentation of the Colorado Cheese Festival. 

The hall-o-cheese

 The good folks at Rocking W Farmstead Dairy were there and I had the absolute pleasure of being introduced to these two, the Farmers and the Portobello Leek Jack. I'm not usually not a fan of either styles but this is done so well I would happily feature it at a cheese party. Also; portobello and leek and cheese? Genius!
 The B
 Jumpin' Good Goat Dairy brought the whole family along to hawk their wares, and it's a good thing because there must have been 25 different kinds of cheese out on their u-shaped megatable. I couldn't quite give each one a due tasting so I focused on a couple, here are those pics!

Their Beuna Vista Bleu Cheese was something to behold, a serious curd that is naturally inocculated in their home-made aging caves. Why is the paste brown, I asked? Because that's what the cave does to it, came the answer. Well there you go. Silly question, silly answer. 

Seriously, these folks brought cheese on cheese. Their chipotle cheeses, again usually not my favorites by a long stretch, were tasty morsels to say the least. The old taste buds just got a little confused is all. 

The James Ranch Artisan Cheese booth only brought two cheeses to show off, but man were they good. I mean serious A-game material and prime proof that America has real original cheeses to bring to the table. Literally in this case.

The Mature Belford stole my heart pretty quickly and secured a spot among my favorites from the festival, rich and nutty, dark, complex, wit a well balanced errrething. So good. Wow. And such friendly employees, too!




I have already professed my undying love for Beecher's to a degree that borders on the obsessive, but here they just proved that even and old love can still be exciting and new. Their Flagship cheddar may be my go-to but the No Woman and the Marco Polo show that you can in fact put things like jerk spices and cracked pepper into cheese and end up with something that actually tastes better than it did before. So well balanced, perfectly displaying the featured flavor while also  respecting the cheese itself... well played Beecher's. Well played.



Caves of Faribaoult's flagship blue cheese, St. Pete's Select Blue was a mouthwatering delight, slightly smoky but creamy and rich, hot but not burning and spicy... pretty much everything you could ask from a blue cheese. I could just curl up in a kiddie pool of the stuff with a pound of crispy bacon and.... oh. People read this blog, I'm sorry. I'll clean it up. 

Crackers, those are clean! And delicious, talk about delicious! Daelias makes some of the singularly most worthy crackers I've ever come across, and believe you me brother/sister, I've eaten a lot of crackers in my day. Nothing quite like these, though, hoo-doggie.

What? More Faribault? Oh that's right, because Blogger's pic-placement system is rubbish and also because this cheese is deluxe. I mean top shelf. Look it up. Fini Cheddar. Nom hard.

All the way from Vermont (and called Vermont Farmstead) was this booth and their Alehouse Cheddar. Talk about cheddar overload, if there was such a thing as too much tasty it would be here.
 I'm not usually a fan of smoked cheese, and Scamorza has never really been an exception, but Fiscalini again proves it's worth with this their take on the classic Italian smoked mozz. Chewy, perfectly balanced smokiness, creamy, just a little salty, really a treat. That's probably why there's hardly any left in the picture. Cue early bird cheese metaphor.















Emmi Roth, a company that makes cheese both in the Old Country (Switzerland) and here in the good old US of A, brought some creamy goodness to the table with this buttermilk blue. Nothing like buttermilk to foil the heat of blue cheese mold, goes down smooth like butter.
Here (below) is the Cypress Grove booth. No, there were no new cheeses or surprise treats..... just the standard super delicious mind-blowing standard-setting epoch-defining cheeses. Ho hum.


 This is exciting, however, and let me tell you why. Sartori, in this stout Yeoman's opinon. Is one of the best cheesemakers to come out of the US. Period. They belong in any competition (and indeed they've won their fair share), on any fancy restaurant's cheese plate, at any respectable cheese party, and on any cheese lover's bucket list. Plus they have their own custom toothpicks, which I'm pretty sure are hand-hewn from timber salvaged from the Titanic. That. Epic. Also it's from Wisconsin... so I guess there's something to that whole Wisconsin Cheese thing. Go figure.
This is a lineup to salivate over. Each one a Gem.

On top of their Sarvecchio Parmesan, which actually defines top shelf as a designation, they have a Balsamic Bellavitano offering..... Oh my dear goodness so good. Go find it and see.

Then there is their Rosemary and Olive Oil Asiago. If you had told me before this event that such cheeses were possibly from within these borders... I'd have called you a liar liar pants on don'tyoujokeaboutcheesewithme.



 Fruition Farms, a company from right here in Colorado, brought some friendly faces and a few excellent sheep's milk cheeses to show off. Their Ricotta especially, was so fresh and so clean clean. Clean clean. Just a super pure representation of what sheep's milk can taste like. What more you could ask for I don't know.
Also, they have a brandy-dandy new cheese that we got to test-drive: Shepherd's halo. Brie-like, sheepy, light, airy, and full of flavor, pick up the first piece you find and savor it with friends. You will not be disappointed.  


At this point I need to point out that, even with this ridiculous wall of photos (congratulations on making it through, by the way), I did not cover every booth in this update. Nor did I even give each cheese/cheesemakers it's proper due. I can't stress enough how good these cheeses are, how good America's finest can do when they set about making a heavenly curd. Never let anyone tell you otherwise, we have a rich tradition here that is only on the up.  I will be reviewing as many of these cheeses as I can find in more detail in the coming months, but if you see any of them I could not recommend cheeses more highly. 
So.
Thank you for putting up with the wonky formatting, the late posts, and the super long read today.... You're all pretty great. 




omnomnomnomomnomnomnomnomnonononmnomnomnomnomomomomomomnomnomnomnomnomnomnonnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnonnomnomnomnomomomomomomomomomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnomnom.
But Seriously.



Saturday, October 29, 2011

Ewephoria, See What They Did There?

There are some traditions as old as the hills. 
The Gouda masters of Holland are the keepers of some such traditions, and naturally they are the last word on Gouda production. This cheese is not one of those traditions.
Aimed pretty shamelessly at the export market, Ewephoria joins the ranks such as Soignon goat brie and Cambozola in letting flavor follow market demands. While those two cheeses are mediocre if forgettable Frankensteins (or Frankenstein's monsters, if you're a purist), Ewephoria is actually pretty good. You know, dear reader, how I protest against such prostitution of palate for profit, but here's one example that stumbles upon a decent idea and executes it brilliantly. 
Origin: Holland
Milk: Sheep, pasteurized
Rennet: Microbial
Affinage: 6-12 months
Notes: There are a few different ages available, but who are we kidding. Why go for mild and meh when you can have a Gouda that screams unintelligbly in Dutch at you. Doesn't that sound like more fun?
Thoughts: This adaptation on Gouda has a pleasant flavor that develops over the course of the taste. At first the cheese starts out with a mild nuttiness and a hint of sweetness, by the end the sweetness has developed into a rich and dark toffee/butterscotch note that breaks down perfectly on the palate. This sweetness is highlighted and contrasted by the natural oiliness of the sheep's milk, which makes for a complex but not overbearing overall taste. Not too creamy, but balanced, this is a great interpretation of the classic Gouda and well worth trying for any Gouda lover. 


What is fascinating is the contrast between the characteristics of sheep's milk from Spain and that from Holland. I mean, barely 1,000km apart and they could be two completely different animals, for example there is nothing olive-oily about this cheese, but you can practically taste it in a lot of the Spanish sheep's milk delicacies. Does no one else find this really exciting? Am I all alone in the universe?




Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Carreyroüs, Racer X

Sorry, that's kind of a reach/throw for anyone who might be familiar with speed racer. It's Racer X because I have pretty much no information on this guy aside from the bare bones. How's that for a disappointing intro? 
Origin: France. Deepest most mysterious France.
Milk: Sheep, unpasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 3-5 weeks
Notes: In the crottin style, mottled rind and stunning to look at. 
Thoughts: The soft rind gives way nicely to a smooth and perfectly moist sheep’s milk paste. The flavor begins nutty and creamy, building into a sweet and bold, full flavor with hints of grass, and a milkiness like you might find in a mozzarella. No real spice here despite the rind, just a solid example of a young sheep's milk cheese.The aftertaste is clean and leaves you wanting more.



For anyone in the Boulder/Denver area, there is a cheese festival in Aurora on the 5th. You should all be there. 

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Cabrales, The Boogey Man of Blue Cheese

It hides out in your closet, spooks young children, fills the stories of concerned grandparents, real deal boogey man stuff. 
Be afraid. Seriously, fear this cheese above all things. 
So vicious is this blue cheese that it can be tough to even find where the paste is among all the mold. Oh that mold. That fierce, fierce mold. 
Not only is it super extra moldy, it's from raw cow, goat, and sheep's milk. It has DOP status and may only be made in the northern spur of the Europa Peaks of eastern Asturias. Spur cheese, man. Spur cheese. 
Origin: Asturias, Spain
Milk: Cow, goat, and sheep, unpasteurized
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 3 months
Notes: Slow aged for 3 months in cold, oxygenated, humid caves. A farmstead, handmade cheese made in the high mountain pastures using good old Penicillium.
Thoughts: There seems to be a slight delay when eating this cheese, perhaps because the tastebuds are initially in too great a shock to even remember to fire those signals to the brain at all. This blue is beyond sharp, beyond spicy. The mold is so densely packed that there isn’t actually much paste left at all, literally a 2:1 ratio of mold to cheese. This can only mean one thing: hide your kids, hide your wife, and hide your husbands cause it’s burning up everybody out here. Really though this is a unique flavor among blue cheeses, the cheese sticks like gum and has a spicy burn that, though it’s a little one-dimensional, grows stronger and stronger with every second and well into the aftertaste. Literally a breath-takingly intense flavor.




The baddest blue cheese I've come across so far... definitely a must for those seeking blue cheese nirvana. Witty cheese comment or something.
 

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Campo de Montablan, More La Mancha Masticatibles

No.
This blog is not reaching you through 
THE CLOUD.
Still, I hope you can be satisfied with the usual slur of bad wordplay, flippant references, and snobbish cheese talk. If not.... then you probably never liked this blog in the first place. You're probably lost, adrift  on the endless interwaves, looking for an island of safety from which to launch your own Wilsonian adventure. Look no further, weary traveler, than these cheese-washed shores. 

There is in fact a cheese today, for those of you with the patience to bear with my wandering thought-dreams. It is a Spanish gem, reminiscent of a preiviously posted cheese; Iberico. Made from the mixed milks of goat, cow, and sheep, it promises to please. Perhaps not an earthshattering curd, but for those looking to collect a comprehensive understanding of the cheeses of the world (that's probably you if you're still reading, alternatively you just know me personally) it is a great addition.
Origin: La Mancha, Spain
Milk: Pasteurized goat, cow, and sheep
Rennet: Animal
Affinage: 4-6 months
Notes: The rind is a little deceiving, sporting the same herringbone design as Manchego. Manchego it is not, as that's a sheep's milk only affair.
Thoughts: Admittedly, the similarities to Iberico are hard to miss. The same indescribable mix of milks plays off of, well, itself, to bring an excitingly unique flavor profile. Unique except for Iberico. Pseudo-unique (because that's definitely not an absolute term or anything, right guys?). Oily and grassy, as any self-respecting Spanish cheese ought to be, it is actually very good by itself. The rich savoriness alone makes this cheese well worth trying and hints of the sweet goat and cow's milk bring a measured complexity. Although it is a rather firm cheese the creaminess is certainly present to carry all of these flavor notes through strongly and, in this Cheese Addict's book, it has just as much right to a place on the cheese plate as any other (Iberico) cheese.












THE CLOOOOOOOUUUUUUUUDDDDDDD!!!!!!